The Cracker Festival

Ranching isn’t the first occupation that comes to mind when one thinks of Florida.  Back in the 18th century, however, it thrived at the hands of the Spanish colonists, native Seminoles and American settlers, who first drifted down from Georgia and mirrored the rough conditions.  The cattle and horses introduced by the Spaniards were smaller and more stocky than later herds, but they offered the same challenges – and more so, since it was virtually free range.  The Anglos became known as Crackers, presumably as a result of the noise from their whips.  But the term became one of derision, representative of people who were crude, morally deficient brutes.  No one was more responsible for this slight than cowboy artist number one, Frederick Remington, who, in the late 19th century, branded them as “wild-looking individuals” on what appeared to be “very emaciated Texas ponies.”

Undaunted, Crackers are very proud of their heritage.  And among their events, Florida Crackers celebrate annually in February in Rainbow Springs State Park in Dunnellon, just north of Citrus County.  It was there that we met not only genuine Crackers but also their sturdy horses, cattle and a mascot — a Catahoula Panther Cur.     The dog is a member of the first breed created in North America, native to Catahoula County in Louisiana.  Its principal talent is boar hunting, and the heavy collar is designed to protect the neck and throat from the swine’s vicious teeth.  During the weekend, we also visited home makers, music makers and craft makers of every stripe.

The Florida Cracker Trail Association is dedicated to preserving the Cracker legacy through education, active involvement and scholarship.  Each year, they hold a week-long Cross-Florida Cracker Trail Ride (without cattle) from the Sarasota area on the west coast to Fort Pierce on the east.

Manatee Park and Festival

One of the more exciting features of the “Nature Coast,” as the natives have dubbed this area, is the natural habitat known by the mouthful Ellie Schiller Homosassa Springs Wildlife State Park.  Ellie died in 2009 at age 65.  Among other accomplishments, she taught mathematics to children in Tibet and served as a fisheries biologist in the state of Washington.  Best of all, however, was convincing her father, Phil Felburn, founder of one of America’s preeminent trucking companies, to create the foundation which, under her leadership, has endowed or contributed to untold numbers of conservation and education organizations.

Homosassa Springs is about 15 miles southwest of Beverly Hills.  The Park runs along the shoreline, encompassing 200 acres of which 5 are waterways of the Homosassa River.  The Park includes dozens of outdoor wildlife exhibits ranging from black bears and bobcats to alligators and waterfowl.

Manatee

Manatee at the surface

What it’s best known for, however, is one of the very few winter habitats for the West Indian Manatee.  These gentle creatures can’t exist in waters less than 72o,   and that’s the minimum temperature of the lagoons within the Park.  So they hover and huddle there by the hundreds (thousands?) during the winter months.  You can see them from the raised boardwalks and bridges meandering through the grounds, or you can view them in an underwater observatory near their preferred habitat.  Seeing them underwater, however, can be blurred by the 34 species of native fish that swim by.

Manatee nose up

Take a deep breath!

Feeling ambitious?  You can actually rent a kayak, wetsuit and snorkel or scuba gear and swim with them.  Or get up close on one of the dozens of tourist boats that circle very gently through their habitat.  The Park is also equipped to care for them in a “hospital” enclosure.  Downtown Crystal River hosts a two day Manatee Festival each January, with music, entertainment, endless rows of vendor booths and themed events.

 

Lu the Hippo

Lu the Hippo

But wait . . . there’s more.  The manatees share their celebrity with of nature’s giant mammals:  Lu, the resident hippopotamus.  Born in San Diego on January 26, 1960, he is a retired movie star, having appeared in flicks and TV shows as part of the Ivan Tors Animal Actors troupe.  The troupe’s winter home was the land now occupied by the Park, and he kinda hung around when it was sold to the state in 1989.  He almost was deported with all the other animals, because the park is dedicated to native species.  But Governor Lawton Childs granted Lu honorary citizenship, allowing him to stay.   His birthday is the occasion of a major celebration each year.

We’ll be covering the Park each year.  There’s always more to see, and we wouldn’t miss the manatees.

Citrus County and its Seat

Beverly Hills, Florida is located in Citrus County. There are thirteen cities and towns in the county, in addition to another dozen or so subdivisions and neighborhoods. There are also six lakes, seven rivers and innumerable streams, ponds and marshes. Oh, and don’t forget the Gulf of Mexico. No wonder it’s dubbed itself the Water Lovers Florida.

Orange groves

Box labels — notice the “Ferris” Groves!

But there’s one thing in Citrus County you’ll barely find: citrus. It wasn’t always that way, of course; groves abounded in the nineteenth century, and it was near the end of that century (1887) that the county was born, sliced off the top of Hernando County.  Six year later, a long hard freeze over the winter of 1893-’94 wiped out the crop, and it never recovered.  Three things saved the county: the discovery of phosphate in the ground, the location and climate as a retirement haven, and the heavy tourism influx to enjoy the scenic – and sea-nic — attractions.   Among the many festivals are those that honor the Manatee, which hibernate in abundance  in its warm sheltered waters; the Cooter, an indigenous large fresh water turtle, and Strawberries.  A premier attraction is the head of the Withlacoochee State Trail,  a 46 mile long route of the old Atlantic Coast Line Railroad that is now a premier hiking and biking trail.

The county seat is Inverness, a small, mostly urban city with approximately 7,500 citizens covering 8 square miles.  It was incorporated in 1917 and was named by a lonely Scotsman who viewed the shores of its largest lake, Tsala Apopka, as reminiscent of the lochs and moors of his native land.   

Elvis Exhibit

Elvis in “Follow That Dream”

In 1961, Inverness had a famous visitor: Elvis! He brought along a large entourage and trucks full of equipment to film one of his most successful movies, Follow That Dream. Originally written as a story of New Jersey sharecroppers, Hollywood decided that a Florida version would be more attractive.  By the time Elvis left the building – and the city – he’d shot enough scenes in the Old Courthouse to fill 10 minutes of the final cut.

Courtroom

Old Courthouse Courtroom

That selfsame Old Courthouse dominates the town square and is not the Heritage Museum.  Originally constructed in 1912, the Courthouse gave way to a modern update one block away in 1978. The Old Courthouse became the headquarters of the Citrus County Historical Society in 1985.  In that interim, it has suffered many awful modernizations, and the new occupants set a goal to restore its original grandeur.

Elvis, again, came to the city’s rescue — indirectly. By reviewing those final scenes in the movie, the restoration committee could see first-hand what the building looked like then. Coupled with archival plans and specs, they were able to produce details that otherwise would have been lost. After $2.5 million and 7 years, the project was unveiled in October, 2000.  Not surprisingly, Inverness holds an Elvis Festival every year. The 100th anniversary in 2012 was the inaugural year of a new, home-grown musical, When Elvis Came to Town. Even with added performances,  the show was repeatedly sold out. But it ran again in late April at this year’s festival and will, I’m sure, continue indefinitely.

Great Seal

State Seal in the floor

Back to the Courthouse. It is now a combination of historical society offices and exhibits.  The old Tax Appraiser/Collector Office now holds a permanent exhibit called A Long Way Home, chronicling the history of the County through the 19th and 20th centuries. The Sheriff’s Office holds Footprints in Time, a look at La Florida dating back to the end of the last Ice Age and highlighting the effect of each of its successive waves of occupants.  In another room, the three Seminole Wars, between ca. 1814-1858 receive significant attention and salutes the Natives’ courage.  One of the exhibits tells a prehistoric story through dialog between two animated creatures; it was produced by a local middle school class.

A rotating gallery featured an exhibition called Humanity Beyond the Barbed Wire: Hitler’s Soldiers in the Sunshine State. On loan from the Florida Holocaust Museum, it tells the story of the 10,000 German POW’s (out of nearly 400,000 across the U.S.) that were housed in 26 Florida camps. It graphically displays the bifurcation between the Nazi propaganda of hate and the actual humane treatment provided by the captors. In fact, many of the Deutschlanders actually had employment outside the compounds and later refused repatriation.