Mackinac Island — and a Reunion: June 27-July 5, 2013

You say tomato and I say tomahto.  You say potato and I say potahto.

You say Mackinac and I say Mackinaw . . .

The real skinny:  The French spelled it with “ac” on the end but pronounced it “aw.”  The British heard it pronounced “aw” so they spelled it that way. Whichever way it is spelled, it is always pronounced “aw.”

We were already due south of it at the Heartland Rally, and our home club, the Friendly Maryland Travelers, were heading there for a Rally. Longtime members, we hadn’t joined them for eons because of our cross-country adventures, so it was nice to hook up again. We all stayed in the Mackinaw City Park in sight of Mackinac Island and not far from the Mackinac Bridge across the straits between Lakes Huron and Michigan. It’s a large, naturally-designed, well-maintained park with many sites on the Huron shore.  We did group meals, side trips down town, a day-long July 4th party and, of course, a trip over to Mackinac Island itself. We took a jet boat over.  There are no cars allowed on the Island except an ambulance.  Some of our folks were drawn to a three hour long horse-drawn tourist cart adventure, while others brought their bikes.  As we went past the Grand Hotel, biggest and fanciest on the island, we learned they charged gawkers $10 to enter the grounds and look around!

Back on the mainland, we toured the Icebreaker Mackinaw Marine Museum.  The ship was commissioned in 1944 primarily to keep shipping lanes open for the transport of raw materials during WW II.  She is 290 feet long with three propellers – two aft and one forward – driven by six monster diesel engines.  She served until 2006, when she berthed for good in her namesake port and gave way to a new Mackinaw, the slightly smaller WLBB-30.  The docent in the engine room when we took our tour was very well versed, and she handled my curiosity thoroughly.

Another highlight was a spin along the waterfront.  Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse is adjacent to Fort Michilimackinac, where a statue tells the story of one of the earliest English inhabitants.  After the British gained control of Canada and the Great Lakes in 1760, 22 year old Alexander Henry (1739-1834) made his way down from Montreal to explore the fur trading opportunities.  Others followed and continued to use the Fort, abandoned by the French, as a trading post.  A year later, the Ojibwe entered the fort, killed all the British and held it for a year.  Alexander, however was spared by Chief Wawatam, who adopted him as a son.  A year later, when the Ojibwe were repulsed, Alexander was granted a monopoly on fur trading on Lake Superior.  After 11 active years, he returned to Montreal and became a merchant.  Among his plaudits is the fact that he introduced John Jacob Astor to the Canadian fur trade.

Mackinac Bridge

Mackinac Bridge

And then we trekked the long span to the Upper Peninsula.

Grand Rapids: June 26 – 28, 2013

Ford Museum3

Mr. President

Ford Museum5

The All-Star

We still had four or five days to kill until our due date at the next Rally in Mackinaw.  Grand Rapids was a comfortable midpoint, and we enjoyed the opportunity to visit yet another Presidential museum.  Our 38th President’s heritage is divided.  Grand Rapids, his home town,  is the location of the Gerald R. Ford Presidential Museum, while his Library is on the campus of his undergraduate alma mater, UMichigan, in Ann Arbor.  They are jointly administered.  The museum  is housed in a grand architectural concept near downtown, its front lawn guarded by an abstract Ford in football regalia. Captain of his high school football team, outstanding college player elected to the national all-star team, and recipient of contract offers from two NFL teams,  he opted, instead, for boxing and football coaching positions at Yale, hoping to get into their law program.  Completing his LLB in the top quarter of his class in 1941, he returned to Grand Rapids and briefly worked as a lawyer.  But a year later he became an ensign in the Navy Reserve.  He served aboard the aircraft carrier USS Monterrey and almost lost his life — not in battle but when the ship was caught in a typhoon in the Philippine Sea, caught fire and was severely damaged.  After his discharge in 1946, he returned to Grand Rapids to practice law but was soon inspired by his adoptive father, the state Republican chairman, to run for Congress.  He was elected to 14 terms, each with over 60% of the vote.  While he longed to be Speaker of the House, the best he accomplished was Minority Leader, a post he held for 8 years before being tapped by President Nixon to replace Spiro Agnew as his right-hand man.  The rest, as they say, is history.

The museum does, indeed, chronicle his life with many exhibits.  His three short years as president do not provide much sensationalism, but it was a much-needed national calmness after Watergate.  Thinking back, the strongest memory I have – other than the pardon — was his “WIN” slogan, encouraging us to Whip Inflation Now.  Pundits  would turn it upside down and recast it as No Immediate Miracles!

While in Grand Rapids, we took a day to drive out and see Lake Michigan at Muskegon.  It’s a fascinating town, and since we now seek out history and aesthetics wherever we go, we find that we often allot too little time to cover a destination.  We could have spent three days exploring Muskegon! The area is blessed with Muskegon Lake, fed by the Muskegon River and emptying into its huge sister through a narrow channel.  It’s 4150 acres and has almost 15 miles of coastline.  As such, it was a haven for the logging industry, where timber came down the river and was milled on the banks of the lake before being freighted out to the world.

HackleyHume

Hackley and Hume Homes

The names Hackley and Hume pepper the landscape; Charles Hackley and partner Thomas Hume were the prime lumber barons.  Here’s a picture of their adjacent homes.

We spent the most time in the Lakeshore Museum. The museum itself explores the lifecycle of the area over the past half-billion years or so – it’s been under water for much of its life and it once meandered south of the equator.   Several lovely dioramas were created by the Works Project Administration, which apparently put many artists, as well as artisans, to work in the 1930’s  Fauna from the woolly mammoth to the barn owl were displayed.

Hackley Park is less than a block away.  It was created to memorialize the War between the States.  It opened in 1892, the day of the dedication of its centerpiece, a 76 foot soldiers and sailors monument. In its center, a 14-foot bronze “goddess of victory” atop a granite pylon, holding a flag and sword (pictured).  She is surrounded by a sailor, infantryman, cavalryman and artillery man.  At the corners of the city-block sized park are four additional bronze statues:  Pres. Lincoln, Adm. Farragut, Gen. Grant and Gen. Sherman. The Museum has several annexes.

scolnik house

The Scolnick House

Time expired before we could explore the campus of  Hackley/Hume homes.  But we did visit two others. The Scolnik House, named for the real owners of the house, represents the Depression Era, when the market declined 75% and 25% of the nation was unemployed.  The storyline in which the home lives today is that it was owned by a Polish Catholic family who converted it into a two family to make ends meet, leasing the upstairs to a family of Polish Jews escaping the Holocaust.  Our guide put us clearly in the situation as she took us through the humble Queen Anne structure.

Next door is the C.H. Hackley Hose Co. No. 2 , a.k.a. the Fire House Museum.   It is a reconstruction, built as part of the bicentennial celebration.  Its artifacts, however, are authentic.  Upstairs is the bunk room, complete with the requisite fire pole.  On the main floor were two horse stalls which, when opened, put their “engines” within a few feet of their tack, hung and prepared for instant harnessing.  A “modern” motor driven engine stood ready, and a jumping net was displayed over it.  Above the stables was a pompier ladder, a device that allowed the fighters to break a window on the floor above, hook to the sill, and climb to rescue the damsel in distress.

This, and a scenic drive to the harbor and channel where the waters of Muskegon flow into Lake Michigan, was the most we could get to do in one day.  Pity!

As a bonus, I got to visit with one of my former database clients, John Worsley.  John was Director of Marketing at Performance Bicycle in North Carolina, and I loved to go down to Raleigh and visit my favorite good ol’ boy.  John moved out of the Tarheel State almost a decade ago, and I found him in Grand Rapids, thanks to LinkedIn. We hadn’t seen each other for over fifteen years, and we did a lot of catching up – and clue-ing Dot in – over a long lunch downtown.  He’s now  a confirmed Michigander and, as usual, a font of local –and industry — knowledge!  (I was really only interested in the former!)

Grand Rapids and environs was a new and very interesting venue for us.  But now it was time to join our Maryland club at our annual long-distance adventure.  This was the first time in four years that we’d been able to.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Heartland Rally and Aftermath — June 16-23, 2013

Numerous nice things happened at the Rally.

When the damage on my trip home from North Carolina first occurred, I contacted the director of dealer services at Heartland to enlist his aid in finding a suitable repairer.  Jim and I have developed a “working knowledge” of each other over the years.  I then contacted the director of the Heartland Owners Club, sponsor of the Rally.  As a result, the word got around, and everyone I ran into when I got there bent over backwards to accommodate and help me.

One of the perks of the Rally was the opportunity to have Heartland perform a couple of factory service needs on each rig.  Techs showed up from neighboring Elkhart in droves on the first Rally day and stayed for several days to complete reasonable requests.  We got everything done that we’d requested!

One more repair was required by the tire explosions — replacement of a small body panel.  Heartland uses an authorized agent for most of its repair and dealer prep work, and Jim made arrangements for me to get that job done before we left – at a very reasonable price.

Despite the fact that we’d spent a week in Goshen in 2012, we still found two new area attractions.  One was Menno-Hof, the perfect place to hone your knowledge of the many area people with straw hats or bonnets, beards or long dresses, boxy black buggies, and houses with no electricity.  Collectively they’re Anabaptists, a movement founded in Zurich, Switzerland in 1525 in the early years of the Reformation.  The movement spread north and east, to Tyrol, the Low Countries and into South Germany and Russia.  Convinced that the church had become corrupted, Anabaptists called for the strict separation of church and state.  They also sought the purity of the simple life.  They were violently persecuted by both Catholics and Protestants — members were declared heretics and treated as such.  They escaped by migrating into the U.S., beginning in 1644 and increasing throughout the 18th century.  William Penn welcomed them to Pennsylvania.  Between 1815-60, others flooded into Ohio and Indiana.  Many of the Pennsylvania Mennonites migrated to Ontario, and direct immigration into Canada followed.

Menno Hoff Center

Menno Hoff Center

Menno-Hof, in the neighboring town of Shipshewana,  is a multimedia presentation of the heritage, beliefs and lifestyle of the movement.  One of the most important things it does is define the groups within the movement, primarily Mennonites, Amish and Hutterites.  The original movement was the Hutterite, but the largest is the Mennonite.  Today, Anabaptists can be found in 66 countries, on every continent except Antarctica!

Your experience begins with a 13 minute introductory video, and then you pass through two dozen exhibits that document nearly phase of Anabaptist life.  It’s a wonderful opportunity to understand – and respect – their culture.  Speaking of respect, the Goshen Walmart isolates a section of its parking lot with hitching posts!

Adjacent to Menno-Hof is the  Hostetler Hudson Museum.  Eldon Hostetler grew up on his family’s 280 acre Amish farm, where automobiles were, of course, verboten.  A neighbor’s son, however, went south and west to follow the wheat harvest, and when he returned, he was driving a 1936 Hudson Terraplane.   In 1940, at age 18, Eldon began his own lifetime bond to Hudsons,  purchasing a 1938 model with a secret loan from his grandfather.

Eldon had a profitable life.  He left the family farm and started a poultry business.  He revolutionized the industry when he invented an automatic feeding system for laying hens and started Ziggity Systems in 1977 to take it to market.  This was followed by dozens of other patents aimed at streamlining farm processes.

Eldon bought a new Hudson every year until manufacturing ceased in 1954.  After that, his wealth made it possible for him to amass and restore a collection reputed to be the largest in the world.  In 1997, Eldon donated the collection, a maintenance fund and 18 acres of land to the town of Shipshewana, which, in turn built the complex to hold it.  Most are now housed in the museum; a few are loaned to other   I took a picture of every one but will spare you by selecting a sampling!

During the Rally, I took advantage of a service called Smart Weigh.  The advisors weigh each wheel of the RV and tow vehicle independently.  I frequently checked the overall weight to be sure I wasn’t exceeding road limits.  But this program revealed a significant fact:  the left rear trailer tire – the culprit in my May travail — was overloaded.  So just before we left town, we installed a new set of heavier-duty Goodyears.

Now we were broke!

 

 

Land O’ Goshen

Meanwhile . . . back at the RV travails.

We were scheduled to be at the  Goshen, Indiana fairgrounds for a huge rally beginning on June 16, sponsored by Heartland, the  manufacturers of our Bighorn trailer.  Goshen and neighboring Elkhart are the center of the RV manufacturing universe.  Goshen is also the home of Lippert Components, the company that manufactures the complete chassis for Heartland and many other RV trailer companies.

The shop I visited in Maryland reported serious damage, including a bent frame.  They couldn’t do the frame work, but they has a neighboring company quote on it, at $1900.  At that point, I would still have to have significant damage to the suspension and running gear repaired.  I contracted for the work, but at the eleventh hour, I smelled a rat.

I called Lippert to see if they could repair (actually replace) our running gear prior to the rally, and I got an appointment.  On Monday, June 9, alone and with two extra tires aboard, I aimed for another 600 mile run, this time to Goshen.  I passed nothing on the road, travelling between 40 and 50 mph as though I was driving on eggs.  I stopped in Streetsboro, Ohio, after 385 incident free miles, and I ate the biggest steak I could find!  The additional 240 miles on Tuesday got me in early enough to arrange to occupy space in the fairgrounds during the Rally’s advanced days.

On Thursday, Lippert fixed the “frame damage” for $100 and replaced the entire undercarriage with a new, heavier duty package.  Total cost: $1400  — $500 less than the quoted frame straightening alone in Maryland.  I was so relieved that I splurged on the addition of air ride.  In the end, I spent about the same for all new stuff that I would have just to have repairs made in Maryland.

As soon as the Rally was underway and the unit was in its reserved space, I drove back to Maryland – a 1,300 mile, 24 hour round trip – to bring Dot and the family aboard.

John C. Campbell Folk School Class of 2013

We left Sandy Oaks for the season on April 29 and took three days to travel to Brasstown, NC so I could do my annual Nantucket Lightship Basketweaving teaching gig the following week.  The puppies rode with me in the truck, and Dot followed in the car.  Having the car with us in Florida was a boon; it gave the truck a much needed hiatus, and it was infinitely easier to park and get around in.  Interestingly, we hardly ever needed two vehicles for separate travel.

On the way, we stopped to visit with Bob and Pat Rotchford in Cumming, Georgia.  Bob and I were business associates in Boston as well as officers together in the New England Direct Marketing Association.  He and Pat came over to our unit in the county park and we treated them to a sumptuous five course dinner, anchored by individual Beef Wellingtons!

046My class at the Folk School this year numbered five, just as it did in 2012. The makeup of this class was quite different, however.  Two of the students were serious basket weavers, members of the N.C. Basketweavers Guild. They had both worked with Nantucket Lightships, but they were anxious to learn the process end to end – as I teach it. One brought a mold made by her husband, a 13 inch tall round behemoth that was solid through and through. I’d guess it weighed 30 pounds. Fortunate044ly, she brought a stand for it, along with a base and a set of wood staves.  Another student was a returnee from two years ago. She was ready to make a Reyes Friendship Basket, and she did a great job.  Another was director of operations for the Chautauqua Society, an organization of great interest to us.  We had a wonderful week, meeting everyone’s needs.  By request, a new trick was included: the creation of a spiral pattern in the weave. The picture at right shows how it develops. (P.S. my students liked it better than I did. I’m quite a purist about Lightships.)

JCCFS holds over 800 classes per year;  mostly week-long but some over a long weekend.  If you’re interested, peek at their website: www.folkschool.org.

 

Time for the annual Valdosta Schipnick

Every March, Al and Barbara Lewis of Valdosta, Georgia sponsor a weekend Schipnick at a wonderful campground, Eagles Roost.  The Lewises have been Schip rescuers for many years, and they started this event as an opportunity for their adoptees and foster parents to have a reunion.  We attended our first Valdosta Schipnick in 2006 and made our way back to Valdosta for the next three years.  Then, while we were on our multi-year journey, Valdosta wasn’t on our route.  So this is the first year back.  The campground reserves the pavilion for our use and earmarks the sites closest to it for attendees with rigs.  Others stay in local pet-friendly hotels.  Unfortunately, continuous rain both days discouraged some, but the stalwarts had a ball.  This was my 75th birthday weekend, and Dot made sure a celebration was in order.

As usual, there was no lack of food.  Al and Barb treat early birds to Brunswick stew on Friday night.  Al prepares a sumptuous low country boil on Saturday, and the Lewises also provide most of the breakfast Sunday morning.  It’s become traditional in bad weather for the remaining revelers to crowd into our RV for the Sunday morning meal.

A special treat for us was the opportunity to once again see my godson, Midnight.  The little guy ran up to me and smothered me with kisses when I picked him up.  Fran is doing a superb job of training him as a therapy dog, and he’s already attained “Good Citizen”  status.

Your Show of Shows!

While there’s entertainment at the campground clubhouse nearly every Saturday evening, there is one presentation that exceeds them all:  the annual Sandy Oaks No Talent Show.  It’s an evening of sidesplitting humor, as many of our fine citizens go all-out to give us a great evening.  In fact, this is the only occasion where the hall becomes too small; if you don’t plunk down your five bucks early enough, you’re likely to be outside looking in.  This year, two emcees kept us laughing between acts while “sets” were being changed onstage; in fact, Sharlene really put on her best Phyllis Diller.  Pictures will tell the rest of the story.

Another State Park – this one Pre-Columbian

The Crystal River Archeological State Park evidences the efforts of Native Americans who lived here in the 16th century.  The area, however, was actually settled more than 2,500 years ago, a time when the river system had matured enough to support a sedentary population.

The 61 acre site consists of a half-dozen mounds and a vista of open ground looking out to the River.  The largest mound, with a platform on its top, is a temple.  The others are burial mounds.  Also at the site is a midden, or dumping area for remnants of living – perhaps our equivalent of a garbage dump.  An unexpected addition are two steles, or limestone slabs.  One clearly depicts  a face, while the other appears to be undecipherable.  The site, an exceptionally calm place to walk and reflect, also included an artifact-laden visitors center.  It’s a worthwhile stop.

The Yulee Sugar Mill

Another attraction in Homosassa is the Yulee Sugar Mill Ruins.  David Yulee (1810-1886) was a Florida businessman and politician. He was born David Levy on St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands, of Sephardic Jewish parents and later officially adopted Yulee, his father’s Sephardic surname.  He served four years in the House of Representatives as a representative of the Florida Territory and when statehood was granted, he became the Senate’s first Jewish member in 1845.  When Florida seceded, he joined the Congress of the Confederacy and, after the war, he was imprisoned in Fort Pulaski for 9 months for his “transgression.”

In 1853, he purchased a 5,000 acre sugar plantation along the River and operated it with slave labor.  It was destroyed during the War, and the ruins are now a state historic site.  David went on to build the Florida State Railroad, running from Cedar Key on the Gulf to Amelia Island on the Ocean.  Also damaged by the War, he rebuilt it and subsequently became the president of four Florida lines, earning the appellation “Father of Florida Railroads.  David and his family retired in 1880 to Washington, DC,  his wife’s original area.

Nantucket Lightship Basketweaving at the Campground

Soon after I first arrived at Sandy Oaks, I offered to teach a 15 hour beginner’s class in Nantucket Lightship basketmaking.  Initial reception was not the best, because most people share their skills without charge. I pointed out that all the funds over and above the cost of materials and supplies was sent to Schipperke Rescue.  I taught five students in two sessions.  A man from New Hampshire made two additional baskets while there, bought a mold and lots of supplies, and engaged his son, a furniture maker, to produce more molds for his use.  And a number of people approached me before we left to sign up for the next season.

One of my J.C. Campbell students, 50 miles away in Gainesville, was aching to make a Reyes Friendship Basket, and she enlisted a friend to join her.  The two worked partially at home and partially at the campground, staying down here long enough to get through the difficult parts.

This is really a win-win for me.  I love passing this classic craft on to others, and I am happy to help enrich Schip rescue efforts with much needed cash.

Looking toward the future . . . we attended the Florida Tropical Weavers’ Guild conference in March at the invitation of my new dear friend, Myra Hudson.  Myra, a skilled artisan in loom weaving and numerous other crafts, was the former student from Gainesville who made one of the purses this winter. Myra lured me there to introduce me to Pat Iverson, their director, hoping that Pat would consider me for a teaching gig at a future conference, and I’ve been contracted for March, 2015.